Whatcho wanna know?

Kristen in her just-right new party dress

I love doing tutorials for my friends Rebekah and Amanda's blog Girls on the Style, but recently they asked if I'd mind giving an overview of how to shopping for vintage. I had a lot of fun answering their questions, but I was surprised to see how many were things I’m asked everyday by ladies shopping in the store. I forget sometimes that there are certain things you have to know when you're shopping for vintage, and it can be really hard to know when something is a good deal, good quality, a good fit or even if it is vintage at all, even if you’ve been doing it for years. Here's a little recap of my answers, and you can check out the original post and the rest of their wonderful blog here. I hope this helps clear up some of the mystery and if you want to know more, just come visit the store for a one-on-one tutorial!

xoxoxo

Paige in her beautiful new maxi dress

Girls on the Style: What’s the first thing you start looking for when you enter a vintage shop?

Shari: Whether I’m thrifting or in a vintage store, I always start with accessories. When an entire tightly packed rack of clothing seems too daunting, a straightforward shelf of shoes or display case of jewelry seems like a good way to ease into my search. Then on to belts and bags. Once I have a few treasures in my hands I’m fortified to go through the clothing. Lots of vintage stores are organized by color, so start at the colors that you typically wear and you’re more likely to find pieces that will go with the things you already own.

Cute new customer in her cut-out Cache vest

GOTS: Are there any “clues” or ways to tell if something is an actual vintage piece?
Shari: The tag is your first clue, followed by the construction. Spend enough time in a vintage store and you start to classify fonts by era pretty quickly. Also, underneath the woven tag you may find an ILGWU (International Ladies Garment Workers Union) tag. Garments made pre-1974 have tags in a number of colors, but from 1974 to 1995 tags were printed in red, white, and blue to emphasize that they were American-made. And even if you don’t see a ILGWU tag, chances are if it’s made in the US that it was made before outsourcing became the norm.
Vintage clothing also tends to be more thoughtfully constructed, with butterflied instead of surged seams and bias taped hems, or at least it was fifty years ago. Even if the construction doesn’t tell you the age, it screams the quality of the garment. If you don’t know what quality construction looks like, go to a high end department store and start turning clothes inside out. You’re not just paying for the name recognition, you’re paying for silk lining and boning and beautifully finished seams, and once you realize that you can get those details in a gorgeous vintage garment for a fraction of the price, Marc Jacobs won’t seem the same.

You can tell this dress is from the 1950's by the way it's cut...

...and by its construction.

GOTS: What should be passed over and what should we always keep an eye out for?

Shari: Pass over anything that doesn’t fit you well! Only you know if you really will get that dress taken in or if it will lurk in the back of your closet, so if it’s not right, or you can’t make it right in 20 minutes or less, let it go! Hemming is an exception. It’s a quick and easy alteration and worth it every time if it makes the difference between the garment being worn or ignored.I also say to keep an eye out for high-quality natural fabrics. They always look and feel better, and they’ll last if you care for them. Look for things you see yourself wearing everyday. The thought is always to splurge on a special occasion piece, but you should really spend on the pieces you’ll wear day in and day out and that tie everything else together: perfectly broken in boots, the just-right belt, the not-too-big purse that holds everything, great jeans.

Jen in her amazing new gold thread bell bottoms

GOTS: What are some things you would consider a steal?

Shari: Anything that makes you feel beautiful, integrates into your current wardrobe, fits you well, and is less than you were expecting it to be. Done and done. If it meets all four of those criteria and you pass it up, that circle skirt or flapper dress will haunt you like the Ghost of Christmas Past.

Sarah in her incredible new butterfly sequin top

GOTS: What about vintage sizes, are they different from current sizes?

Shari: I once read that if you take the vintage size and subtract 6, you have your current size, and I’ve found that to be more or less true. The problem is that modern clothing sizes vary so much from brand to brand, it’s hard for a girl to even know her current size. And with your size 7 microfloral sundress from 1991 and structured wiggle dress from 1961 both technically considered vintage, there’s no way to guaranteed that the same size will fit the same way from one era to the other. A much better way to shop is to know your measurements, carry a tape in your purse, and measure the garment beforehand. It’s not foolproof, but it’s infinitely more accurate. Plus, you can pay special attention to the areas where you know fit to be a problem, like your extra broad shoulders or extremely short waist. These are things that the number on the tag won’t tell you anyways, that they’re the deal breakers.Also ladies, know what clothes that fit you well look like when they’re not on your body and you’ll have more realistic expectations for what you take into the dressing room. Often clothes look appealing to us on the rack because they’re so small and cute, like a puppy, not because they’re going to be flattering. You’ll look smaller in clothes that fit you well.

Devaki rocking her new Blue Hawaii bathing suit

GOTS: Any other tips for scoring a great vintage find?

Shari: What makes something a find is it being great for you, so know your body and know what you like. The key is not to try to make every passing trend fit your body, but to find what really works for your lifestyle and build, and slowly acquire pieces that will work together. The strong shouldered 80’s blazer that makes one girl feel overwhelmed is another girl’s daily staple. There’s no quick and easy answer, you have to invest time and effort into honing your personal style, and once you find it you’ll have a closet full of pieces (old and new) that work together and flatter you.

Justin in his new kitty shorts. Meow!